Doors of the United Kingdom

I always take pictures of doors wherever I travel, and this trip was not different.

These pictures were taken all through Wales, England and Scotland over the past month. 

Turn The Thing Around

You are not going to turn around here

Our boat this trip is 70 feet long and 7 feet wide. The canals we cruise through are around 30 feet wide, although often much narrower due to bridges, moored boats, weeds and shallow areas, so do the math . . . . . you cannot turn around. You cannot start down one canal and decide “Oh, I don’t really like this scenery, I think I’ll turn around and go back.” On our first trip, we came upon two girls in a boat completely wedged across the canal; they thought they could just turn around, and required some assistance to get sorted out and back on course.

Fortunately, the designer of the canal systems took this problem into the planning, and

Sure not here either

periodically they placed “Winding Holes” which are wider basins where you can turn around. In our Canal Guide books, these winding holes are marked as a circle with a number in them indicating how long a boat can be if you want to turn around. The biggest winding hole I have seen was marked “70”, meaning a 70 foot boat can turn here.

Fortunately, you plan your trip carefully so you do not have to turn around very often, because it is a complicated procedure. We had to do it 3 or 4 times. Often you have to go down a branch to a town, and you have to turn at the end, but we had one corner that was so sharp you could not get around, especially in a long boat, so you have to go the wrong way for a bit until you can turn around

A bit wider, but still no room to turn

and come straight through the junction.

The other difficulty is that a 70 foot narrowboat steering with a tiller does not turn easily and has almost no control in reverse, so turning one around is a bit complicated. Fortunately we have had an experienced mariner on board (Bill), who is good at it, and we have generally handed the tiller to him when a complete change of direction was required, but this trip I was determined to learn as many things as possible, and this was one thing I wanted to do, so asked Bill for a lesson.

This is a winding hole

Here is the procedure . . . You enter the winding hole at a crawl, and turn the boat into the widest part of the basin, allowing it to swing as far as possible. Before you run aground, you throw it into reverse, but don’t bother trying to steer, just go straight back, giving yourself some room in the middle. Swing the tiller hard to pull the stern away from the way you need to go, and power forward. This swings the stern away, but makes the bow go in the direction you need to turn. Sometimes you can do it in one maneuver, but with a 70 foot boat you do not have a lot of room to work in a 70 foot winding hole.

Here I might be able to turn around

With Bill standing beside me, I managed it pretty slick . . . I hope I can get it the next time.

Cooking Local

Picking plums the narrowboat way

It seems to have become a “tradition” on these boat trips that “the guys” cook at least one meal. With some trepidation, John joined me on a shopping expedition and we bought some local pork, as well as some nice vegetables. Oh, and a bottle of wine of course. Our plan was to serve a nice roast pork with a glaze of mustard and maple syrup and some vegetables to accompany it.

Then along came Beeston Stone Lock. Regis drove into the lock and we waited while Shelly and John worked the lock. After a few minutes of waiting casually for the lock to fill, Shelly discovered that we were sitting under a plum tree, and she started reaching for branches to shake some plums down. Obviously, other narrowboaters had already picked the ones you could easily reach. After sampling one, she started searching the ground for more. The branches at the top of the tree were blue with plums, but it was impossible to reach them. Watching her try to reach the plums, I realized that as the boat came up in the lock I could use the barge pole to reach the top of the tree, so as Regis held the boat in the lock I climbed onto the roof and started hitting branches as high as the pole would allow me to reach. Shelly, still foraging under the tree was not aware of my plan until nice ripe plums started raining down on her. She ended up getting a good-sized bowl of nice purple plums.

Making Jam

Looking at the bowl of plums sitting on the table in the boat, I decided to take advantage of them and switched the recipe to a delicious plum glaze for the pork. I took the plums and boiled them down into a quite delicious plum jam. Instead of mustard we will try a plum jam glaze for the pork. And we ended up having plum jam for breakfast for the rest of the trip.

Hopefully “the girls” will enjoy our nice local cooking.

Engines and Old Boats

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Old Boats

We managed to arrive in Chester with some extra time, so decided to continue on down the canal to the end of the Canal at Ellesmere Port, where the Shropshire Union Canal actually meets the ocean and where boats on the canal would have picked up their cargo to be taken in to the cities and towns in England. In its heyday this port would have been bustling with activity, but now the ships sail by to load trucks which replaced the trains which replaced the canal boats. The area now is occupied by condominiums, a large modern hotel, and The National Waterways Museum. Hearing good things from fellow boaters, we decided to visit the museum while in Ellesmere Port.

The museum is a rambling complex of over nine building housing different aspects  of Inland Waterways history. There is a stable, a blacksmith shop, a woodworking shop, a basin full of old boats, a general history building, and my favorite, the engine room.

Many of the old boats were in terrible shape, and many were full of water. At least two were

Living Space for Narrowboat Family

sitting at the bottom of the basin completely submerged. One caused me some concern as I drove into the basin and found a smokestack sticking out of the water, and metal pieces just below the surface where I needed to go. Apparently there is a plan to move these poor old boats into a building where they can be preserved. There were a couple of original old working boats which you could enter to get a feel of how the families working these boats lived. Where we use the entire 70 feet of boat for our three bedrooms, two baths and full galley and lounge, entire families lived in an area smaller than one of our bedrooms. They needed the rest of the boat for carrying cargo.

Fire it up!

Most of the old boats on site are way to far gone to be restored and will simply be preserved for display, but the engine room was a different story. Here, dedicated volunteers have lovingly restored old boat engines to perfect working condition. There was a rainbow of colours with engines of yellow, red, blue, turquoise, and even black. The brass and stainless glistened and although these old engines would have thrown oil and grease around as they pushed the boats along the canals, these were polished and shining. They have all been restored to perfect working condition and are run regularly. When I was wandering around admiring the engine artistry, a volunteer fired up a huge single cylinder diesel engine. Watching him run through a complicated series of steps to get the engine going, I was happy to know that our little four cylinder engine started with a simple turn of the key. Although I enjoyed all of the museum, this room was my favorite.

And now, you will be subjected to pictures of engines.

Up, Up and Across

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Let's do it on foot first

Probably the high point of this narrowboat trip was the passage over the two big aqueducts on the Llangollen Canal. An aqueduct is simply a bridge to carry the canal over a road, river or in the case an entire river valley. The first is the Chirk Aqueduct, which carried an Iron trough upon 10 masonry arches 70 feet high and 710 feet long. It is over 200 years old, opened in 1801. There is now a railway viaduct running beside it. At the north end of the

Crossing the Chirk

aqueduct is a tunnel which runs for 421 meters, so depending on which direction you are coming, you navigate your boat 70 feet above a river valley and then enter a tunnel under a hill. One of our crew was both slightly claustrophobic and not fond of heights, so although I drove over and under the first time, I handed the tiller to him on the way back, thinking if he was concentrating on driving the boat he might not be so concerned.

That is a long way down

Although shorter at only 307 meters, the Pontcysyllte aqueduct is much higher at 127 feet, and much more dramatic because it is simply a metal trough sitting on 18 stone piers, so when you drive across you have to actually lean over the side of the boat to see the edge. It appears there is nothing holding the boat up.

This really is a dramatic experience driving a 70 foot long vessel across a bridge high above a river valley. You have to have confidence that the builder,

Across the Pontiunpronouncable

Thomas Telford built this structure to last over 200 years ago. Fortunately, the trough is barely wider than the boat, so you hardly have to steer, the trough guiding you across, and although it is difficult to cross without slight bounces against the sides, the trough has survived for 200 years and is still holding boats over 100 feet in the air.

I'm not scared . . .

Certainly an experience we will remember for many years to come.

Underdressed in Chester

Cruising into Chester at twilight

Two years ago, following our last Narrowboat trip, we spent a week in the city of Chester, and really enjoyed it. While exploring the city we discovered that the canal runs right along the old city walls, so when planning this trip I worked Chester into it. After all, last time I was only able to visit about ten of the 50 pubs within the walled city.

Mooring by the city walls

This time, we cruised into the city and found a mooring spot right beside the city walls. A short walk along the canal and we went through the gate into the city. As soon as we found the old section of the city, we were surrounded by crowds of people all dressed up. Men in suits and women in evening gowns and high heels. Although it was pouring rain, no one was wearing raincoats, and only a few had umbrellas. It was cool, but most of the girls were dressed in just fancy dresses. This was not the Chester we recalled from two years ago. Looking for a place to eat was a challenge, as most places were packed and had long lines waiting.

Found a pub . . .

Finally finding a pub with a table for six, we asked what was going on. It was race weekend, and the big last horse race of the year at Chester Downs was tomorrow and everyone was celebrating.

Here we were all dressed for narrowboating in raingear (Yup, raining again today), so we really did not fit in with the crowds of race revelers in Chester this evening.

Narrowboat Day Two

Walking the Aqueduct

This was the second day on the Narrowboat, and we went from England into Wales. We spent the night outside of a town called Chirk, and went to Llangollen. This was a particularly challenging section of the canal with two tunnels, two aquaducts, and two sections of single boat width canal. Only one bridge and no locks, but still plenty to keep us busy.

The canal we navigated today starts at Llangollen, and so all the water for the canal comes from here. This means that unlike most of the canals, there is current which complicates things at times. When the canals are narrow, the current will move the boat more than normal.

Underground in a Boat

For the uninitiated, an aqueduct is a bridge that allows the canal to cross a valley. The biggest, the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, was built over 200 years ago with stone arches supporting the 125 ft. iron water channel carrying the canal 127 feet over a river valley. You come around a corner, the canal narrows, and you are suddenly floating in a narrow channel of water over 100 feet in the air. Although you know it is a bridge, and there is a walkway and rail on one side, on the other there is nothing. You actually have to peer over the side of the boat to see that you are on a bridge. I was driving the boat, but the crew was snapping photos and the folk walking across the bridge were snapping holiday snaps of us. I expect to see us on Youtube anytime now . . .

Traffic Jam! Bill got me through . . .

We navigated two tunnels, the longest 191 yards long, under a hill. These tunnels are arched brick lined structures barely wider than the boat. There are no lights but the boat has a headlight. Although I have never piloted tunnels, I have been through a few and knew what to expect as well as the principles necessary to get the boat through. Unfortunately the boat ahead of us did not really know what she was doing and went too slowly and ended up bouncing off the walls all the way. Unfortunately this along with the current flowing through the narrow passage made it difficult. If you maintain a certain speed you can get through more smoothly, but even our slightly claustrophobic crew member made it through, although I think I heard a sign of relief as we exited into the daylight at the other end.

Travel Gnome on the Aqueduct

As well there was about 700 yards of single boat width canal where the canal was cut from a steep rock hillside. Now a narrow canal is not really that hard, but this section twisted and turned making some tight turns that our 70 foot long boat could barely get around. These narrow sections require some planning, because you have to let crew ashore to go ahead and check for oncoming boats, and to stop any boats coming into the section while you are navigating it, because there is no passing room and it is almost impossible to back up.

It was a busy day, and mooring outside the town of Llangollen, I was happy to relax with a nice glass of wine as dinner was prepared from in the galley. 

Note photo four by Shelley Glover

Four Countries in 24 Hours

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No toll to walk . . .

Well, we are off on our latest adventure, this one another Narrowboat trip. It is actually two trips, each a seven day excursion. We pick up the boat in a little town called Whitchurch, and we take seven days to go into Wales and back, including crossing one of the longest and highest aqueducts. Next we are going back to Chester England, a quaint little town we visited following our last Narrowboat trip. Two years ago, we spent a week in Chester and

A "Local" we met on a Walk

really liked it. While there, I noticed the canal system runs right into Chester, so I thought it would be nice to go back to Chester on the Narrowboat.

To start this trip we fly out of Halifax Canada direct to Glasgow Scotland, on an overnight flight, getting into Glasgow with the rising sun the next day. We then picked up rental cars and drove on the "wrong" side of the road with no sleep, down through Scotland and Western England and into Wales. So, in less than 24 hours, we were in four countries, Canada, Scotland, England and Wales.

The Whole Gang on the Pier

We pick up the boat on Saturday, so we are spending two days here in Wales, visiting a town called Llandudno (Don’t ask me to pronounce that . . . ) Here are a few pictures from the town.

Lifeboat Garage - Bill & John were excited!

So Many Pubs . . .So Little Time . . .

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A good English Brew!

England knows how to do beer. They therefore have also figured out how to serve it . . . the answer is simple . . in pubs.

All along the canals we explored during our first two weeks, there were pubs strategically placed at junctions, towns or beside the locks. Anywhere the boatsmen would have had to stop was a good spot to put a place to get a beer. We did manage to try out a few on our canal trip.

Here in Chester however they have taken the pub scene to a whole new level. There are over 50 pubs within walking distance of

A lie . . . these two do not know Beer

the apartment. There is one right next door, two up the street, and two immediately across the bridge. During our walks around Chester I am constantly finding new and interesting pubs.

The names of course sound like old English Pubs.

Bear & Billet

Falcon

Cross Keys

Old Queen’s Head

Pied Bull

Brewery Tap

Liverpool Arms

Pitcher & Piano

George & Dragon

The Brewery Tap

700 Year Old Cellar

My intent was to work my way through them, but OMG there are too many. I went to the Falcon on a recommendation of someone I met and the owner gave us a tour of the 700 year old cellars, and I saw the 200 year old oak barrels that he pulled my Ale from. I also had a pint in the Brewery Tap which claims to be 600 years old, and today on the way back from visiting the ruin of the original Chester Cathedral we stopped at the Cross Keys for a Green Monkey Lager in what they claim to be the 6^th oldest pub in the world. Ok, I am getting the idea that age here in Chester may be a relative thing . . . 

How am I ever going to be able to enjoy the Mic Mac Tavern with its ancient 6 month history?

Another Cathedral

For someone who is not at all religious I seem to end up in a lot of churches and cathedrals on my travels. If there is some hidden significance in that I am not sure what it is.

Yup that makes me want to attend church

Here in Chester the Cathedral is a significant landmark, and it stands above the town center, visible from almost anywhere. After walking the City Walls, and visiting the Chester Rows (the downtown two storied shopping areas) the Cathedral was next on the list of things to see.

It is not hard to find or get to. Walk downtown and you arrive at the cathedral, like most cathedrals, it is pretty much in the center of the city. On first sight, this one looks like most other cathedrals, made of stone and partially covered with scaffolding for restoration. Entry to the cathedral is free, but once inside you are heavily encouraged to book the “Chester Cathedral Height” tour which takes you up the main tower of the cathedral.

Beautiful tiled floors

I started out by simply wandering through the vast open spaces inside the cathedral. Unlike some of the fancier cathedrals I saw in Europe, which are finished with plaster, paint and brightwork inside, this one is mostly unadorned stone, This makes it dark and the beautiful stained glass windows only allow so much light inside. Fortunately my camera does a great job in low light, and my pictures actually show more detail than you see in person. I love finding interesting details such as the Magistrates room, or the old doors and locks everywhere.

Amazing Wood Carvings

In the center of the cathedral is a beautiful separate area done in wood that was amazing. I am sure that this room has some special name and purpose, but I just enjoyed the amazing carved woodwork. The wooden seating surrounding the pulpit were all carved with dragons, birds, snakes and very odd people. Looking closely, some of these were a bit creepy and disturbing. A dragon eating a man’s head, birds fighting snakes, grotesque looking people. The religious significance escaped me, but the work involved drew me in. What was most appreciated about this area, was that although I was asked not to “touch”, the area was not roped off, and I was free to explore and examine the individual woodwork.

After exploring he main cathedral, we decided to pay for and take the Tower Tour. It is advertised as Climb 216 steps, 125 feet, through 1000 years of history to look out over two countries, and five counties. Although that is a good description, you also get a tour of the

Horsehair in the walls

bells and get the see the Pipe Organ from above. The Bell Tower was especially interesting. The bells have been moved to a modern building next door (the guide described it as “The Rocket Ship”), because the constant ringing of the massive bells was actually vibrating the masonry of the tower apart. To reinforce the stone, and solidify the masonry, horse hair was once added to the mortar, and as you climb the narrow circling stairs your hands brush this hair protruding from the walls. That could be a bit unsettling if you did not have the explanation. The now unused bell ringing area is now set up as a demonstration are to explain all about the bells.

I think that is Beeston Castle on the hill

Our tour guide was a friendly young girl who seemed to take pride in her job and her city. She was a wealth of information, and knew the answer to most questions from all three of her visiting tourists on the tour. Did you know that the Curfew bell was rung every evening warning any visitors (Meaning he Welsh) to leave the city or be shot. Apparently anyone conversing in Welsh was considered to be plotting revolt so was open to being shot on sight. My heritage is English and Irish . . . . wonder what they did to the Irish?