Walking the Canal

Canal de la Bobine in Narbonne

After a month here in Narbonne, we will be moving up to Argens-Minervois, where we will be meeting up with our son and his partner and renting a boat to travel on the Canal de Midi. If you have been following my posts for a few years, you will recall that we did this in the UK a number of times (September 2015 and September 2017) on the unique narrowboats used in the UK. Here in France the canals are wider, the locks bigger and the boats are not so “narrow”. I will of course be posting about that part of the vacation, but today we decided to walk down to the canal which runs through Narbonne and connects to the Canal de Midi which we will be experiencing. 

The canal system in France was built to connect the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean through France in the 1600’s and completed in 1681 and has been operating without interruption for over three centuries.

Boats Moored in Narbonne

The canal here in Narbonne is called the Canal de la Robine, and it connects the town to the canals running north to Toulouse and south to the Mediterranean. We found the canal on our first day exploring the town as it runs right past the Halles Market and many days an open market is held along the banks of the canal. Just down from the Market is a famous bridge which was built with houses on it, and now contains an up-scale shopping area.

Walking the Canal

We headed in the opposite direction out of town following rows of boats moored alongside the canal in the town. As in the UK, these canals were originally built before the days of railways and boats towed by horses were an important means of transportation, so the canals usually have a “tow path” running alongside the canal which are maintained today as nice smooth, flat recreational trails. In town these pathways are paved, but once you leave the town they become gravel, but are widely used and we encountered many walkers, runners and bicycles. 

Plane Trees along the Canal

The canals here in this area of France are famous for their stately plane trees lining the banks. These trees provided shade along the canal and in many places it was like driving through a tunnel of leaves. Unfortunately it is thought that during the war, American ammunition boxes introduces a disease called Canker Stain which is slowly killing the trees and many have had to be cut down. In places where the disease has killed most of the trees, new planting of varied species are being carried out and the mixed types of trees should avoid this in the future. 

We walked about two kilometres along the canal and in minutes we were out of town and walking in the French country side. In many ways these French canals are not so unlike the ones we were accustomed to in the UK and provide a relaxing and unique way to see the country. I am looking forward to exploring further in the boat we will rent. Stay tuned!

Modern Highways and Ancient Canals Coexisting

Messing about in Boats

launching the boat

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Remember that quote from “Wind In the Willows” about “Messing about in boats”? Kejick Bay is on a large lake and everyone has a boat. Well almost everyone; Alisha & Derek did not have a boat . . . YET.

When we arrived Derek was pleased to show me a boat with a 20 hp Johnson outboard on it. Nice, except the outboard did not work, and the boat had not been in the water for years, and designed for a motor controlled with a wheel and remote forward controls, while the outboard was a simple tiller model.

This looks like it needs work

The outboard was purchased in an “As-is” condition and was not pumping water, so needed a rebuild. Fortunately I have a friend who can fix anything on speed-dial, and he gave me advice on what was likely needing repair. I pulled everything apart discovering a seriously damaged water pump so with a new impeller and a couple hours cleaning up the housing, I was able to rebuild everything and get it back together. A few more adjustments and a big garbage can of water proved

everything was working as it should.

The boat was a good solid aluminum 14 foot model, but the wooden transom was in bad shape and was not going to hold the motor. A morning in the front yard had all the rusted screws extracted and the rotten wood thrown on the fire-pit. New plywood was cut and attached with nice shiny bolts and screws, and the rebuilt motor fitted. It all looked good.

Now this is a good working boat.

Now if only we could find a car and a trailer that would fit together to get the boat to the lake. After a borrowed trailer, and trailer ball, we got the boat to 'Archie's Landing” and into the water. Derek took a quick celebratory lap around the causeway bay and proved everything was working as expected before coming back to take us out for a ride.

Yes, here I am once more “messing about in boats . . . .”

The confident chief engineer - he knows the engine is GOOD!

The passengers - not so much!

Fishing

Kejick Island Ferry

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When I was four or five my father took me fishing. We lived in a fishing community, so he took me out in a boat and we fished . . . . After a while he asked me how I liked fishing? I replied “Dad to be serious, it's boring . . . .”. “Oh, good, I'm not real fond of it either, but I thought I should at least introduce you to it”, he replied. We never fished again. Like my dad, I felt it was my fatherly duty to at least introduce my son to fishing, so I took him out once – I don't think I succeeded in turning him into an angler. . .

Fishing from the Ferry

Years later my good friend Jim asked me if I wanted to go fishing with him. Jim always asks me to do stuff with him and I appreciate it, so I said I'd go. I discovered that fishing was still boring. I didn't catch anything; didn't even get a nibble. I am told it is not about catching fish, it's about being out in a boat, being on a lake, being with nature, relaxing . . . . . some sort of fishing zen, philosophy thing. I guess I just do not get it . . .

Well, here in Kejick, fishing is big. The lake is huge and complicated, and there are lots of fish, even big fish. On the drive here we frequently saw fishing resorts and lodges, so the fishing must be good. Derek threatened to take me fishing and finally I agreed.

Someone was catching fish

On the way into Kekick there is a deserted ferry that once was used to ferry workers machinery and materials to and from a mine. I thought it had been the ferry to Kejick Island, but Alisha tells me that when Kejick Bay became an island, the only way back and forth was by boat in the summer or snowmobile in winter and occasionally an ice road. the deserted ferry has become a convenient place to fish. It's a boat, and it is out in the water, but you can walk onto it and easily get to deep enough water to fish, so we went there one afternoon to fish. A couple of people did catch fish but not me. I got bored and went to take photos of and old boat washed up on the shore down the lake.

Determined to convert me, Derek insisted we would have better luck at his favourite spot. Plus here we would really be out in a boat. Fishing poles, life jackets, tackle box, minnow bucket, net, gas can, we headed out. Under the causeway bridge to a spot that “We were guaranteed to catch our limit in 20 minutes”.

A rare photo . . . me with fish

Well, we were out for more than 20 minutes, but I can report that I actually did pull out four fish, and a couple were good sized, but I threw three back and Derek promised to cook our catch up so I can sample the Kejick Bay fish. And really, it almost wasn't boring.

I'd rather go take photos of this cool old boat

Fishing . . . . it's a zen thing . . . . .

Getting to Know the Nubians

Nubian Houses

In southern Egypt, there is a separate cultural group called the Nubians. Their civilization actually predates the Egyptian dynasties and at one time the Nubians ruled all of Egypt. While visiting the city of Aswan in southern Egypt we got to learn a little more about these interesting people.

When Egypt built it's massive dams on the Nile it was the Nubian People who most suffered. Over 200,000 people had to be moved and over 20 priceless archeological sites were threatened by the creation of Lake Nasser, the largest man made lake in the world. Some of the temples were rescued and moved, but the expense was so great that the only way it was accomplished was to donate other temples to the countries helping Egypt move the temples. Many minor sites were simple flooded and lost forever. I recall National Geographic doing a feature on the relocation of the

Boating up the NIle

Abu Simbel Temple, and was interested to learn that this was where it happened.

As part of our cruise ship tours, we visited the Philae temple which was moved from it's original island where it was partially submerged and rapidly deteriorating to a nearby island that was higher. This really was amazing to see. The temple was disassembled stone by stone, moved and rebuilt. Other than little metal pins used to identify the individual pieces, you cannot really tell it hasn't been on the island forever.

We also toured the Nubian Museum which gave a very detailed description of the history of these people including many photographs of the original temples prior to the flooding by Lake Nasser.

Waiting for Lunch

Finally we took a leisurely boat ride up the Nile through protected areas to a Nubian Village. They favour a unique style of domed houses that are built to remain cool in the 40º+ temperatures in this southern region of Egypt. We stopped and had a delicious Nubian meal prepared as we waited overlooking the Nile. Their houses are brightly coloured Mud brick structures decorated with paintings all over the walls. Walking through the village you came across camels lying beside the road, or you might turn a corner to find a camel walking towards you.

Spending time finding out more about the Nubians was a pleasant way to end our cruise.

Lunch - Delicious!

Nubian Family Pet

Camel Parking Only

Spice Market

Felucca

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Feluccas on the NIle

A Felucca is the name for a particular kind of boat used on the Nile in Egypt. It carries a single triangular sail hung at an angle from a single mast. Because they do not have a serious sailboat style keel, they are used mostly in calmer waters, such as rivers. They were the predominant means of transportation on the Nile for many years, and are still in use today, but mostly as a tourist ride. They are an ideal size for large river, and are easy to manoeuvre with just one person, but will accommodate a good group of people.

The "Crew"

On a pleasant Egyptian evening we booked a felucca for a sunset ride on the Nile. Wine, beer, chicken wings and pizza were packed and the boats are all well suited for this type of activity, with comfortable seating around the edges and a large table for food and drinks in the centre.

Fill my glass again . . .

The pilot pushed us away from the pier, and we were off on our Nile felucca ride. The boat has no motor, depending on the quite steady breeze blowing off the desert to power our craft. This is a leisurely trip, no frantic trimming of sails, running back and forth, or balancing the boat by hanging off one side. It is calm, relaxing and peaceful, with the pilot sometimes leaning back holding the tiller with his legs as he helped us sample the chicken wings and pizza. A popular evening activity, the Nile was filled with feluccas gently sailing back and forth across the river as we waited for sunset.

Sunset on the Nile

As the sun set in the west, and the drinks and food were slowly depleted, we watched the skies darken with evening and we made our way back to the dock, another great travel experience. I was reminded once more of the quote from “The Wind In the Willows” by Rat,  "There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats"

A Great Egypt Evening

Engines and Old Boats

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Old Boats

We managed to arrive in Chester with some extra time, so decided to continue on down the canal to the end of the Canal at Ellesmere Port, where the Shropshire Union Canal actually meets the ocean and where boats on the canal would have picked up their cargo to be taken in to the cities and towns in England. In its heyday this port would have been bustling with activity, but now the ships sail by to load trucks which replaced the trains which replaced the canal boats. The area now is occupied by condominiums, a large modern hotel, and The National Waterways Museum. Hearing good things from fellow boaters, we decided to visit the museum while in Ellesmere Port.

The museum is a rambling complex of over nine building housing different aspects  of Inland Waterways history. There is a stable, a blacksmith shop, a woodworking shop, a basin full of old boats, a general history building, and my favorite, the engine room.

Many of the old boats were in terrible shape, and many were full of water. At least two were

Living Space for Narrowboat Family

sitting at the bottom of the basin completely submerged. One caused me some concern as I drove into the basin and found a smokestack sticking out of the water, and metal pieces just below the surface where I needed to go. Apparently there is a plan to move these poor old boats into a building where they can be preserved. There were a couple of original old working boats which you could enter to get a feel of how the families working these boats lived. Where we use the entire 70 feet of boat for our three bedrooms, two baths and full galley and lounge, entire families lived in an area smaller than one of our bedrooms. They needed the rest of the boat for carrying cargo.

Fire it up!

Most of the old boats on site are way to far gone to be restored and will simply be preserved for display, but the engine room was a different story. Here, dedicated volunteers have lovingly restored old boat engines to perfect working condition. There was a rainbow of colours with engines of yellow, red, blue, turquoise, and even black. The brass and stainless glistened and although these old engines would have thrown oil and grease around as they pushed the boats along the canals, these were polished and shining. They have all been restored to perfect working condition and are run regularly. When I was wandering around admiring the engine artistry, a volunteer fired up a huge single cylinder diesel engine. Watching him run through a complicated series of steps to get the engine going, I was happy to know that our little four cylinder engine started with a simple turn of the key. Although I enjoyed all of the museum, this room was my favorite.

And now, you will be subjected to pictures of engines.

Living on the Water

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Party Boat

One thing we have discovered since we started traveling is that we like being on the water. In Spain we were half a block from the Mediterranean, in Portugal we were in a fishing town, Budapest had us overlooking the Danube, Chester was on the River Dee, and living on a narrowboat for two weeks in England was a favorite vacation adventure. In Italy we were landlocked, and to be honest we missed the water.

Living on the Water

Now here we are off on a 43 day cruise across the Pacific Ocean to New Zealand, and will be on the ocean for weeks and weeks. What better way to start this adventure than a water taxi to Fisherman’s Wharf to see the floating homes there, and see how people actually “Live” on the water here in Victoria.

Watch out for float planes!

The weather forecast for Victoria was calling for rain, so we did not expect much, but although we woke to a downpour, the sun came out and we had a pleasant day. We walked down to the inner harbor across from the famous Empress Hotel, and caught a cute little water taxi out to Fisherman’s Wharf. Now there were a few fishing boats down at one end of the wharves but this is mostly a tourist attraction now, with floating homes, restaurants, and souvenir shops outnumbering the actual fishing boats.

Water Taxi

The water taxis are cute little boats that actually look too top-heavy to be seaworthy, but they scoot around Victoria’s harbor ferrying folks wherever they wish to go. In fact they even do a special Water Taxi Ballet in the summer. Check it out on youtube . . . Our taxi got us safely to Fisherman’s wharf, dodging float planes, ferries to Seattle, and various other Victoria Harbor watercraft, depositing us at the wharf, with a cheerful “See you on the way back”.

A house on a boat

Regis is a big fan of the many HGTV “Home Improvement”, shows including the “My Floating Home” series where they build houses that are moored in harbors, canals or rivers. Here at Fisherman’s Wharf we actually got to see some of these floating houses. It was interesting to wander down the wharf and see these unique homes. There was everything from a little Hobbit house to a converted boat with a huge party patio on the roof.

Our return water taxi pilot told us that one recently sold for around $250,000.00 and the monthly mooring fee is $800.00, so I do not think I am buying one any time soon.

There's Nothing in Fiumicino . . .

Writing My Blog On the Balcony

When we told our friendly Italian Tour guide Gio, that on our way home we were going to spend two nights in Fiumicino, he put his beer down and with a puzzled look on his face said, "Why would you do that? There's nothing in Fiumicino!".

And Yes there was a rooftop pool

Like Glasgow, Scotland which although warned off by everyone, we managed to spend four completely entertaining days exploring, I am afraid that although he is a great tour guide, Gio was wrong on this one. Fiumicino is fabulous.

Our Hotel in Fiumicino

Headed out to sea

On the Beach

The first thing Fiumicino has going for it is that it is a seaport on the mouth of the Tibet River, and as. much as we enjoyed Lecce, this is our first extended vacation where we could not look out and see water, and being from Nova Scotia, we missed a view of the water. As I write this, I sit on our second story balcony looking out onto the Tiber River as it flows into the sea. It is Sunday, so the fishing fleet is tied up along the wharf across the road. Instead of fishing related activity, the locals and us tourists are strolling in the sunshine, and the street vendors are out in force.

Yes there was seafood

We spent the morning wandering along the waterfront streets, and exploring the town. Of course, the seafood is excellent here, and unlike Lecce, where we twice ate in restaurants completely alone, here, the spot we chose was packed, and people were arguing over seats, and the restaurant next door had a long line-up at 1:00 for lunch.

So, whatever you do, DO NOT visit Fiumicino - there is nothing there.

Gears & Levers

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Train Parts

I love anything mechanical. Give me gears, cogs, levers and any sort of engine and I love it. I love cars, motorcycles, boats and trains. If it moves with an engine I like it. So when we discovered a museum of transportation here is Glasgow, it was on my “must-see” list.

Glasgow has always had an image problem, seen as a working town with its neighbor Edinburgh being the “interesting”  city. As a result Glasgow is trying to improve it’s image for visitors. One way it has done this is to make most of the city attractions free. Most of their museums do not charge to visit them.

A wall of cars

The Riverside Museum of Transportation is one of the best and most interesting museums I have ever visited. It is in a beautiful setting right on the River Clyde in a beautiful modern new building. Although a ways from our hotel, it was on our "Hop-on-hop-off” tour bus route, so getting there was easy.

The most interesting thing about this museum was how they presented things. For example I have visited many excellent car museums with impressive collections of vehicles, but here the cars were displayed on a wall or parked on an incline two stories long. In addition there was a special display of a Mini, an Anglia, and an Imp There was a whole room devoted to engines including a Beetle that children could climb under to see the engine. There was a display of a new Mini used in safety testing and a Ford Cortina that was sold as original, but was really two cars welded together.

South African Steam Locomotive

There was a wall of motorcycles, four massive steam locomotives including one that had been built in Glasgow, shipped to South Africa, returned to Scotland 100 years later and restored, A tiny trailer where hippy protesters of Nuclear war lived, a presentation on the first ship sunk during WWII, a room about subways, a revolving carousal of model ships, a number of displays about bicycles and many other different topics and displays. Outside docked on the river was a three masted tall ship also open for exploring.

Although I walked through the entire museum and saw everything (I think . .), I did not have time to spend the amount of

Part of a steam engine

time I would have liked with all the displays. I spent a lot of time with the old steam engine from South Africa, and I spent a lot of time on the wall of motorcycles, but the police pursuit vehicle could have used more time, as could the Hillman Imp.

You can see why this museum appealed to me, but Regis also said it was the most interesting one she has visited as well.